Frigidaire is a U.S. brand under which consumer and commercial appliances are sold in America. It is a subsidiary of a large European company Electrolux.
Frigidaire traces its history back to the beginning of the previous century. It was established as a refrigerator company in Indiana in 1916. Two years later Frigidaire was purchased by General Motors and was owned by it until White Consolidated Industries bought it in 1979. During these years the company was very competitive in the washing-machine business. One of its most famous engineers, Kenneth Sisson, designed the incrementing timer that in a number of years could be seen on washing machines by many other brands.
When Frigidaire was sold to White Consolidated Industries, it changed the GM design to the Westinghouse one.
Are you a “fix-it” person or do you prefer to call for service when something goes wrong with your Frigidaire washer? The list of Frigidaire washer error codes below will be useful in both cases. Even if you do not have the time (or desire) to fix your home appliances yourself and prefer to book a service engineer, it is very important to understand what is going on with the machine. You will find this information in the table below, in the second column (“Condition”).
- In addition to basic fault codes that suit all the washing machines produced by this American brand there are also:
- Frigidaire Affinity washer error codes, that are common for Affinity models;
- Frigidaire front load washer error codes, that will give you a chance to solve any issue with your front-loading model.
Error codes for Front-Load Frigidaire washers
| Error Code | Condition | Check/Repair |
|---|---|---|
| E11 | Fill time too long | Make sure that the water supply faucets behind the washer are fully open. Check the fill lines for freezing in the winter. Check the drain system for a siphon problem. If the inlet water valve assembly is defective, replace it. |
| E13 | Water leak in the tub or air leak in pressure-switch air hose | The washer fills for too long without the water level pressure switch tripping to indicate that the washer is full. Check for a leak in the wash tub. If the tub is not leaking, check to see if the washer is overfilling. If it is, check the air hose and water-level pressure switch for problems. |
| E14 | Dispenser drawer not closed | Some models have a magnetic reed switch in the dispenser drawer housing that detects whether the dispenser drawer is closed. If the drawer is closed, check to see if the magnet on the bottom side of the drawer is in place. Replace the magnet if necessary. Replace the reed switch if it's defective. |
| E21 (error solution E21) | Drains slowly | Check the washer drain and drain hose. Unplug the washer and check the drain pump for a clog. If the drain path is clear, the drain pump usually needs to be replaced. |
| E23 | Drain pump relay failed | The drain pump relay on the control board failed. Replace the electronic control board |
| E24 | Drain pump relay failed | |
| E31 | Pressure sensor not communicating with electronic control board | This error is only on models with a digital display. Unplug the washer and check the wire harness connections between the water level pressure sensor and the control board. If the wiring connections are sound, the water level pressure sensor usually needs to be replaced. |
| E35 | Water-level pressure sensor detects overfill | This error is only on models with a digital display. If the washer is actually overfilling, check the inlet water fill valves to see if they are shutting off the inlet water flow properly. If they are defective, replace the water inlet valve assembly. If the washer isn't overfilling, the water-level pressure sensor usually needs to be replaced. |
| E43, E44, E45, E46 | Control board failure | Unplug the washer for 5 minutes. Restore power and see if the code returns. If it does, replace the electronic control board. |
| E47 | Control detects an open door lock circuit in Spin mode | Unplug the washer. Check the wiring harness for the door lock assembly. If the wiring harness is sound, the door lock/switch assembly usually needs to be replaced. |
| E48 | Control detects a problem with the door lock circuit | |
| E52 | Bad signal from the motor tachometer | Unplug the washer. Check the resistance through the tachometer on the motor. It should measure between 105 & 130 ohms. If the tachometer is bad, replace the drive motor. If the tachometer resistance is within that range, replace the speed control board next to the motor. |
| E55 | Motor overheating | Unplug the washer and remove the drive belt. Spin the motor pulley. If it doesn't spin freely, replace the drive motor. If the motor spins freely, rotate the large drive pulley on the back of the washer tub to check the spin bearing. If the pulley doesn't spin freely, the outer tub and spin basket usually need to be replaced because a spin bearing failed. If the spin bearing is sound, check the resistance of the motor windings for a reading between 4 and 6 ohms. If the motor has failed, replace it. If the motor is sound, the speed control board usually needs to be replaced. |
| E56 | High motor current | |
| E57 | High current on inverter | |
| E58 | High current on motor phase | |
| E59 | No tachometer signal for 3 seconds | Unplug the washer. Check the resistance through the tachometer on the motor. It should measure between 105 and 130 ohms. If the tachometer has failed, replace the drive motor. If the tachometer resistance is within that range, remove the drive belt. Spin the motor pulley. If it doesn't spin freely, replace the drive motor. If the motor spins freely, rotate the large drive pulley on the back of the washer tub to check the spin bearing. If the pulley doesn't spin freely then the outer tub and spin basket usually need to be replaced. If the spin bearing is sound, check the resistance of the motor windings for a reading between 4 and 6 ohms. If the motor has failed, replace it. If the motor is sound, the speed control board usually needs to be replaced. |
| E5A, E5B, E5C | Speed control board is overheated | Replace the speed control board |
| E5D, E5E, E5F (error solution E5D, E5E, E5F) | Communication problem between the control boards | Unplug the washer and check the wire harness connections between the main electronic control board and the speed control board. If the wire harness connections are sound, replace the speed control board. If the problem persists, replace the main electronic control board. |
| E67 | Incorrect voltage supply to the microprocessor | Unplug the washer for 5 minutes and then plug it in. If the code returns, replace the electronic control board. |
| E75 | Failed water temperature sensor circuit | This error code is for washers with a digital display only. Unplug the washer. Check the resistance through the temperature sensor circuit. It should be around 50,000 ohms at room temperature. If the sensor is defective, replace the water inlet valve assembly. If the resistance in that circuit's sound, replace the control board. |
| E95 | Electronic control board communication error | Unplug the washer for 5 minutes and then plug it in. If the code returns, replace the electronic control board. |
| EB1 | Incoming power frequency out of limits | Unplug the washer. Have your local electrical power service provider check the power supply frequency. If it's normal and the code doesn't clear, replace the electronic control board. |
| EB2 | Incoming line voltage is above 130 volts AC | |
| EB3 | Incoming line voltage is below 90 volts AC | |
| EF1 | Clogged drain pump | Unplug the washer. Clear the clog from the drain pump. If the drain pump is damaged, replace it. |
| EF2 | Too much suds | Reduce the amount of high-efficiency (HE) high-efficiency detergent being used in the washer |